
Convertible Top
Repair & Adjustment
Manual
Proper care of the top material will reduce the possibility of
water stains, mildew, or shirkage. Do not stack the top if it is
damp. Always use the convertible top vinyl boot to keep the top
material clean, dry, and positioned when the top is stacked. (down)
The rear window slide fastener should be lubricated at least once
a year with stainless stick lubricant such as "Door Ease".
Use the top compartment behind the rear seat back only for
storage of the top. The storage of other items not only
interferes with the proper operation of the top, but may also
damage or stain the top material. The vinyl top may be washed
each time the car is washed. Clean the material with FoMoCo
Interior Trim Cleaner and scrub brush. For an extremely soiled
top, use an abrasive cleaner sparingly. Be sure to rinse the to
thoroughly with clean water during and after washing. Do not
use a cleaning fluid that is not recommeded for vinyl material
because damage to the top may result. The vinyl coating
becomes tacky at approximately 180 ° F. Therefore, when making
paint repairs, be sure to protect the top material from heat.
- If the top cannot be lowered or raised satisfactorily, or
if it fails to operate at all, and the trouble is not
readily apparent, make the following mechanical,
electrical, and hydraulic tests to find the cause of the
trouble. Always check the battery before making any of
the following checks.
- Table
1 shows symptoms and possible causes of trouble.
MECHANICAL CHECKS
- 1. If the action of the top is slow, raise and
lower it slowly and look for bent or misaligned linkage.
- 2. If binding is noted when clamping the top at
the header, check the alignment of the door and the
quarter windows with the side rail weather strips. Also
check the top sag adjustment and toggle clamp adjustment.
ELECTRICAL TESTS
- Battery Charge. The battery charge should be
determined before making any electrical checks because a
partially discharged battery will cause slow motor and
pump operation.
- Current Draw. Check the current draw in the top
operating circuit, disconnect the black wire at the
circuit breaker (located on the starter relay), and
connect an ammeter in series in the circuit. Operate the
top control switch and note the ammeter readings. The
current draw should be 35 amps maximum operating, and 40-50
amps stalled, with a voltage reading of 9-10. Current in
excess of 75 amps indicates a frozen pump or cylinder or
a mechanical obstruction. Low amperage with the motor
running and no top movement indicates a defective pump or
low fluid level in the resevoir.
- Top Control Switch
1. Connect one terminal of a test lamp to the black (feed)
wire of the top control switch, and ground the other lead
(Fig. 1). If the test lamp does not light, there is an
open short circuit between the battery and the switch.
2. If there is voltage to the switch, connect a
jumper wire between the black (feed) wire and the red
wire, and then between the black wire and the yellow wire
(Fig. 1). If the top motor operates, the switch is faulty
and must be replaced.
Table
1

- Circuit Breaker. If there is
no voltage at the top control switch, connect a jumper
wire across the terminals of the circuit breaker (located
on the starter relay) and operate the switch. If the top
motor operates, the circuit breaker is faulty and must be
replaced. If there is no voltage at the circuit breaker,
check the black wire from the circuit breaker to the
starter relay.
- Swtich-to-motor Wires.
Disconnect the yellow and red switch-to-motor leads at
the junction block near the motor. Connect a test lamp
between the yellow wire and a ground, and check by
operating the top control switch to raise the top.
Connect the test lamp between the red wire and a ground,
and check by operating the switch to lower the top. If
the test lamp does not light in either case, the wire
from the junction block to the switch is open or shorted.
- Motor. Check the operation
of the motor by connecting first one motor lead, and then
the other, directly to the battery positive terminal. If
the motor operates in either case, but will not operate
when hooked into the wiring harness, check the wiring
harness again for short or open circuits. If the motor
will not work when hooked directly to the battery, check
the black (ground) wire from the motor. If the motor
still does not work, it must be replaced.
HYDRAULIC TESTS
- Faulty hydraulic system operation can be caused by lack
of fluid, leaks, air in the system, obstructions or kinks
in the hoses, or faulty operation of a cylinder or the
pump.
- Fluid Level
1. Remove the rear seat and raise the top.
2. Place absorbent cloths below the filler plug.
3. Remove the filler plug, and check the fluid
level. It should be level with the bottom edge of the
hole.
4. If the level is low, check the system for
leaks, adding automatic transmission fluid - Type A,
Suffix A - as necessary.
- Lift Cylinder.
Remove the rear seat and quarter panel trim panels,
operate the top control switch, and observe the operation
of the lift cylinders for the following:
If the movement of the piston rods is sluggish or uneven,
check the hoses from the pump to the cylinder for kinks.
If one piston rod moves more slowly than the other, the
cylinder with the slower rod is defective and should be
replaced.
If both rods move slowly, or do not move at all,
disassemble and repair the pump.
| 3.
ADJUSTMENTS AND LIGHT REPAIR |
- If the top is misaligned, corrections should not be
made until after a check has been made for bent linkage.
- Before aligning the top, visually determine if the
trouble results from top misalignment and/or window
misalignment. It may be necessary to align both the top
and the windows because of the relationship between the
two. Adjustments of the door and quarter windows must be
checked and any necesssary changes made before making top
adjustments. These windows must be fully closed to insure
proper ajustment.
SIDE RAIL
WEATHERSTRIP ADJUSTMENTS
- The side rail weatherstrips can be adjusted laterally and
also for and aft (Fig.2).
- Adjust the weatherstrips laterally so that the sealing
lips make full contact with the door quarter window
frames.
- Adjust the weatherstrips fore and aft to butt the ends of
the weatherstrips together for a watertight seal.
STRIKER PLATE ADJUSTMENT
- The striker plates must be aligned with the dowel pins
prior to making other top adjustments. The dowel pins are
not adjustable. A slight lateral adjustment of the
striker plate is provided by loosening the striker plate
retaining screws.
TOGGLE CLAMP
ADJUSTMENT
- The toggle clamps that hold the header bow against the
header can be adjusted to provide a good seal.
1. To determine which side is not sealing, check
the weatherstrip between the header bow and the header.
Refer to Figure
2 for side rail weatherstip installation. Both toggle
clamps need not be adjusted unless necessary.
2. Release the toggle clamps, and thread the
toggle hook in or out until adequate sealing pressure is
applied at the header weather strip. Excessive tightening
of the toggle hooks will distort the No. 1 bow and cause
poor weatherstrip sealing.
BALANCE LINK ADJUSTMENT
- The blance link adjusting bracket is mounted on the main
pivot bracket support. (Fig. 3) Two adjustments are
provided at the bracket. Sliding the bracket in the
elogated mounting holes permits proper stacking of the
top in the well. Turning the Allen head adjusting screw
adjusts the side rail to glass clearance.
- Side Rail Sag. If the
side rail sags above the door glass, adjust as follows:
1. Use the top of the door glass and quarter panel
glass as reference points to determine the proper level
of the side rail.
2. Have the top locked in the fully raised
position.
3. With an Allen wrench, turn the adjusting screw
in the balance link adjusting bracked down to raise the
side rail. The adjusting bracket retaining screws should
be loosened during this adjustment.
4. If the side rail is too high, or crowned, above
the windows, turn the adjusting screw up to lower the
side rail.
- Top Stack. If the top stacks too high in the well,
it will be difficult to fasten down the boot. To obtain
proper stacking, loosen the main pivot bracket mounting
screws, and let the bracket seek its own position. Then
tighten the main pivot bracket retaining screws.
MAIN PIVOT BRACKET ADJUSTMENTS
- The main pivot bracket is mounted on the main pivot
bracket support. The support is mounted to the inner
quarter panel and the wheel house extension. The main
pivot bracket mounting provides for shifting of the
entire top assembly, for and aft, vertically and
laterally.
- For and Aft Adjustment. This adjustment moves the
top assembly straight forward or rearward to obtain a
good fit between the rear side rail weatherstrip and the
rear edge of the quarter glass. The top assembly can also
be moved across the windshield header by this adjustment.
- 1. Loosen the the balance link retaining screws
and disconnect the top assembly lift cylinders.
- 2. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot
bracket support to the inner quarter panel and to the
wheelhouse extension (Fig.4).
- 3. Shift the entire pivot bracket support fore or
aft as required to bring the rear side rail in proper
relationship to the quarter glass and tighten the main
pivot bracket retaining bolts.
- 4. Tighten the balance link retaining screws and
connect the top assembly lift cylinders.
- Vertical Adjustment. This adjustment moves the top
assembly to obtain a good fit between the windshield
header and the top assembly, and between the top assembly
and the window glass line.
- 1. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot
bracket to its support (Fig.4).
- 2. Shift the main pivot bracket up or down as
necessary to obtain the proper clearance along the side
rails and quarter and door glass.
- Lateral Adjustment. This adjustment shifts the top
assembly sidewise to obtain a good seal between the side
of the rear side rail and the quarter outside rear side
belt moulding.
- 1. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot
bracket to its support.
- 2. Shift the main pivot bracket toward either side
as necessary to obtain the proper clearance (0:38 inch)
between the rear side rail and the quarter outside rear
side belt mouldings and tighten the retaining screws.
- 3. Adjust the side rail weatherstips as necessary
to obtain a satisfactory seal along the glass line.
| 4.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION |
MOTOR AND PUMP
- A pump repair kit and a reservoir repair kit are
available for service.
REMOVAL
- 1. Operate the top to the fully raised position.
- 2. Remove the seat cusion.
- 3. Disconnect the motor leads and the ground wire.
- 4. Remove the attaching screws, and remove the
motor and pump assembly from the floor pan. Do not lose
the rubber grommets.
- 5. Vent the reservoir by removing the filler plug,
and then re-install the filler plug. The reservoir
must be vented in order to equalize the pressure. This
lessens the possibility of fluid spraying on the trim and
paint when the hoses are disconnected.
- 6. Place absorbent cloths beneath the hose
connections, disconnect the hoses, and then plug the open
fittings and lines.
DISASSEMBLY
- 1. Remove the filler plug, and drain the fluid
from the reservoir into a clean container.
- 2. Scribe lines on the reservoir, pump body, and
reservoir cover so these parts can be positioned properly
upon assembly (Fig.
5).
- 3. Remove the center bolt from the reservoir cover
(Fig.
6).
- 4. Remove the cover and reservoir, and the seal at
each end of the reservoir.
- 5. Remove the mounting bolts that hold the valve
body on the pump body.
- 6. Place a cloth under the assembly, and carefully
remove the valve body so that the check balls are not
lost.
- 7. Remove both rotors and the drive ball.
Assembly
- Use all the parts contained in the pump repair kit when
assembling the pump or reservoir.
- 1. Install the drive ball and inner rotor on the
armature shaft.
- 2. Install the outer rotor over the inner rotor.
- 3. Place the check balls in the pump body channels.
- 4. Install the valve body on the pump body.
- 5. Install the valve body mounting bolts.
- 6. Install a seal in each end of the reservoir.
- 7. Install a new seal on the center bolt, and
install the reservoir and cover on the valve body, using
the lines previously scribed as guides. (Fig.
5).
- 8. Place the assembly in a horizontal position,
fill the reservoir with automatic transmission fluid Type
A, Suffix A to the level of the bottom of the filler plug
hole. Install the filler plug and new seal.
INSTALLATION
- 1. Remove the plugs from the lines and fittings,
and connect the lines to the pump. Use cloths to absorb
any fluid that leaks out of the lines or the pump.
- 2. Install the assembly on the floor pan, making
sure the rubber grommets are in proper position under the
mounting brackets.
- 3. Connect the motor lead wires and ground wire.
- 4. Loosen the reservoir filler plug and operate
the top assembly two or three times to bleed off any air
from the system. Check the fluid level in the reservoir
and tighten the filler plug. The top must be up when
the level is checked.
- 5. Install the rear seat cushion.
LIFT CYLINDER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
- 1. Operate the top to the fully raised position.
- 2. Remove the rear seat cushion and the quarter
trim panels.
- 3. Remove the cylinder assembly support pivot
bracket retaining bolts and bracket.
- 4. Remove the hair pin clip and clevis pin at the
top end of the cylinder and remove the cylinder.
- 5. Disconnect the plug the hydraulic lines at the
upper and lower ends of the cylinder. Use absorbent
cloths to catch any fluid that leaks out.
- 6. Position the cylinder in the floor bracket with
the hose connection facing down.
- 7. Connect the hydraulic lines to the cylinder.
- 8. Install the clevis pin and hair pin clip at the
top end of the cylinder.
- 9. Position the cylinder assembly to the support
pivot bracket and install retaining bolts.
- 10. Loosen the reservoir filler plug and operate
the top assembly two or three times to bleed any air from
the system.
- 11. With the top in the raised position, check the
reservoir fluid level.
- 12. Install the quarter trim panels and the rear
seat back and cushion.
TOP REAR SIDE
RAIL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
- 1. Unfasten the clamps that hold the top to the
windshield header.
- 2. Remove the rear seat cushion, seat back and
quarter trim panel.
- 3. Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the rear
side rail weatherstrip (Fig.
2) and remove the weatherstrip.
- 4. Pull the top fabric from the rear side rail.
- 5. Lift the top and temporarily support it in a
vertical position. Remove the cotter pin and washers
retaining the pivot pin and at the control link, rear
side rail, and number 3 bow bracket. (Fig.
7). Lift the top to the closed position, but do not
fasten the windshield header clamps.
- 6. With a block of wood, support the center side
rail.
- 7. Remove the roll pin and pivot pin retaining the
center side rail to the rear side rail.
- 8. Remove the cotter pin, washers, and pivot pin
retaining the rear bow and rear side rail.
- 9. Remove the pivot pin retaining the top control
link, rear side rail and number 3 bow.
- 10. Remove the roll pin and pivot pin retaining
the power link to the rear side rail.
- 11. Pry the rear side rail from the center side
rail.
- 12. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and pivot pin
retaining the rear side rail to the main pivot bracket
support.
- 13. Remove the rear side rail.
- 14. Transfer the rear side rail bushings and
deflector to the new rear side rail.
- 15. Connect the rear side rail to the main pivot
bracket with the pivot pin, washer, and cotter pin (Fig.
7).
- 16. Connect the power link to the rear side rail
with the pivot pin and roll pin.
- 17. Connect the center side rail to the rear side
rail with the pivot pin and roll pin.
- 18. Connect the rear bow to the rear side rail
with the pivot pin washer, and cotter pin.
- 19. Lift the top, temporarily support it in a
vertical positon, and remove the center side rail
temporary support. Connect the top control link and the
number 3 bow to the rear side rail with the pivot pin,
washer, and cotter pin.
- 20. Cement the top fabric to the rear side rail
and install the weather strip.
- 21. Close the top and fasten the windshield header
clamps.
- 22. Install the quarter trim panel, rear seat back
and seat cushion.
BACK CURTAIN WINDOW REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
- 1. Unfasten the clamps that hold the top to the
windshield header.
- 2. Unsnap the well cover from the back curtain
window rear and side belt tacking strips.
- 3. Remove the bolts and lock washers that retain
the curtain rear and side belt tacking strips to the body
panel.
- 4. Open the back curtain window slide fastener and
remove the curtain assembly.
- 5. Pull the tacking strips from the curtain and
remove the staples from the tacking strip.
- 6. Remove the tacking strip adjustment retaining
screws from the tacking strips (Fig.
8)
- 7. Align the belt center tacking strip on the
curtain and staple the curtain securely to the tacking
strip.
- 8. Staple the side tacking strips to the curtain.
- 9. Position the curtain assembly to the body
panel, and loosely install the belt tacking strip
retaining bolts and lock washers.
- 10. Close the curtain window slide fastener and
fasten the top clamps at the windshield header.
- 11. To adjust the curtain window, tighten or
loosen the tacking strip retaining bolts as required.
After adjusting the curtain, install and tighten the
tacking strip adjustment retaining screws until they
bottom against the body panel.
- 12. Snap the top well cover retainers into the
tacking strip.
UPPER HALF CURTAIN
SIDE FASTENER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
- 1. Unfasten the top clamps at the windshield
header, and then open the curtain window slide fastener.
- 2. Using a marking pencil, mark mating lines at
the center of the No. 4 bow, the retainer, and the slide
fastener and welt assembly.
- 3. Loosen the retainer attaching screws along the
back face of the No. 4 bow sufficiently and remove the
upper half of the slide fastener and welt assembly (Fig.
8).
- 4. Remove the upper half of the slide fastener
from the welt assembly.
- 5. Position the upper half of the slide fastener
on the welt assembly and sew. Make sure the slide
fastener overhangs the welt byt the same amount as the
original installation.
- 6. Position the welt portion of the slide fastener
in the retainer on the No. 4 bow center, using locating
marks, and tighten the retaining screws.
- 7. Close the slide fastener, and then fasten the
top clamps at the windshield header.
- 8. To adjust the curtain window unsnap the
convertible top well cover from the curtain rear and side
belt tacking strips. Loosen the tacking strip adjustment
retaining screws. Then, tighten or loosen the tacking
strip retaining bolts as required.
- 9. After adjusting the curtain, tighten the
tacking strip adjustment retaining screws until they
bottom against the body panel. Snap the top well cover
retainers into the tacking strip.
LOWER
HALF CURTAIN SIDE FASTENER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
- 1. Unfasten the convertible top clamps at the
windshield header.
- 2. Unsnap the convertible top well cover from the
curtian rear and side belt tacking strips.
- 3. Remove the bolts and lock washers that retain
the curtain rear and side belt tacking strips to the body
panel. (Fig.
8).
- 4. Open the curtain window slide fastener, and
remove the curtain assembly.
- 5. Cut the old slide fastener from the curtain and
sew the new slide fastener in place.
- 6. Loosen the tacking strip adjustment retaining
screws.
- 7. Position the curtain assembly to the body
panel, and loosely install the belt tacking strip
retaining bolts and lock washers.
- 8. Close the curtain window slide fastener and
fasten the top clamps at the windshield header.
- 9. To adjust the curtain window, tighten or loosen
the tacking strip retaining bolts as required. After
adjusting the curtain, tighten the tacking strip
retaining screws until they bottom against the body panel.
- 10. Snap the top well cover retainers into the
tacking strip.
CONVERTIBLE TOP FABRIC REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
- The convertible top consists of the deck and two side
quarters, bonded into one piece of material. The bonded
seams eliminate the possibility of leaks and also
separation,due to thread deterioration. In most cases it
will be advantageous to replace the back curtain when
replacing the top fabric.
REMOVAL
- 1. Place a protective cover across the deck, cowl
and hood to prevent scratching the finish when replacing
the top.
- 2. Remove the rear seat cushion and seat back.
- 3. Raise the top to gain access to the underside
of the front bow.
- 4. Remove the front weatherstrip retainer (Fig.
9) and the weatherstrip.
- 5. Remove the two front side rail weatherstrip
retainers and the weatherstrips.
- 6. Remove the two center side rail and the two
rear side rail weatherstrips.
- 7. Remove the metal screw and washer that secures
each end of the folding top compartment well to the pivot
bracket supports.
- 8. Starting at one end of the compartment,
carefully pull the trim retainer out of the channel. Fold
the trim over the seat area and quarter panel trim.
- 9. Remove the tip from each end of the moulding on
the rear bow. Carefully pull the moulding out of the
retainer. Pry the moulding retainer off the bow.
- 10. Remove the bolts that attach the top and back
curtain tacking strips to the body.
- 11. Remove the staples that secure the top
material to the rear bow.
- 12. Carefully pull the top material free from the
underside of each rail.
- 13. Remove the staples that secure the top
material to the underside of the front bow.
- 14. Carefully separate the top from the listings
on No. 2 and 3 bows.
INSTALLATION
- 1. Remove the tacking strips from the old top.
- 2. Staple them to the new top in the same location
as they were on the old top.
- 3. Fit the new top on the roof bows.
- 4. Working from the center outward, staple the top
deck to the rear bow. Make sure that the rear section of
the slits is stapled to the bow before drawing and
stapling the front portion of the slits.
- 5. Secure, and tighten the quarter deck tacking
strips to the body as required to align the listings with
the No. 2 and 3 bows.
- 6. Center the top material and pull it forward
over the front bow to remove the wrinkles from the top
deck and quarters. While the material is pulled over the
front bow, make a reference mark on the material at the
leading edge of the bow with a piece of chalk. The mark
should extend the entire length of the bow.
- 7. Raise the top high enough to gain access to the
underside of the front bow.
- 8. Align the reference mark to the leading edge of
the bow and staple the material in place.
- 9. Install the weatherstrip and the three
retainers on the No. 1 bow.
- 10. Secure the flaps to the underside of the side
rail with trim cement. Trim the excess material from the
flaps.
- 11. Install the rear, center and the front
weatherstrips on the side rails so that the end of the
weatherstrips are in alignment of the side rail joints.
- 12. Tighten the quarter deck tacking strips as
required to remove wrinkles from the material and obtain
a tight seal at the mouldings.
- 13. Install a piece of tape across the rear bow to
cover the staples.
- 14. Install the moulding retainer, moulding and
the two tips on the rear bow.
- 15. Secure the back curtain to the upper part of
the zipper.
- 16. Secure the back curtain tacking strip in place
with the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts as required
working from the center outward.
- 17. Starting at one end of the folding top
compartment, insert the trim retainer into the channel.
- 18. Secure each end of the trim to the pivot
bracket supports with a metal screw and washer.
- 19. Install the rear seat back and cushion.
- 20. Cement the top material to the listings on the
No. 2 and 3 bows.
- 21. Remove the protective covers from the back
deck and hood.
- 22. Clean all chalk reference marks from the top
material.
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