Proper care of the top material will reduce the possibility of water stains, mildew, or shirkage. Do not stack the top if it is damp. Always use the convertible top vinyl boot to keep the top material clean, dry, and positioned when the top is stacked. (down) The rear window slide fastener should be lubricated at least once a year with stainless stick lubricant such as "Door Ease". Use the top compartment behind the rear seat back only for storage of the top. The storage of other items not only interferes with the proper operation of the top, but may also damage or stain the top material. The vinyl top may be washed each time the car is washed. Clean the material with FoMoCo Interior Trim Cleaner and scrub brush. For an extremely soiled top, use an abrasive cleaner sparingly. Be sure to rinse the to thoroughly with clean water during and after washing.
Do not use a cleaning fluid that is not recommeded for vinyl material because damage to the top may result.
The vinyl coating becomes tacky at approximately 180 ° F. Therefore, when making paint repairs, be sure to protect the top material from heat.
If the top cannot be lowered or raised satisfactorily, or if it fails to operate at all, and the trouble is not readily apparent, make the following mechanical, electrical, and hydraulic tests to find the cause of the trouble. Always check the battery before making any of the following checks. Table 1 shows symptoms and possible causes of trouble.
1. If the action of the top is slow, raise and lower it slowly and look for bent or misaligned linkage.
2. If binding is noted when clamping the top at the header, check the alignment of the door and the quarter windows with the side rail weather strips. Also check the top sag adjustment and toggle clamp adjustment.
Battery Charge: The battery charge should be determined before making any electrical checks because a partially discharged battery will cause slow motor and pump operation.
Current Draw: Check the current draw in the top operating circuit, disconnect the black wire at the circuit breaker (located on the starter relay), and connect an ammeter in series in the circuit. Operate the top control switch and note the ammeter readings. The current draw should be 35 amps maximum operating, and 40-50 amps stalled, with a voltage reading of 9-10. Current in excess of 75 amps indicates a frozen pump or cylinder or a mechanical obstruction. Low amperage with the motor running and no top movement indicates a defective pump or low fluid level in the resevoir.
Top Control Switch: 1. Connect one terminal of a test lamp to the black (feed) wire of the top control switch, and ground the other lead (Fig. 1). If the test lamp does not light, there is an open short circuit between the battery and the switch.
2. If there is voltage to the switch, connect a jumper wire between the black (feed) wire and the red wire, and then between the black wire and the yellow wire (Fig. 1). If the top motor operates, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.
Circuit Breaker: If there is no voltage at the top control switch, connect a jumper wire across the terminals of the circuit breaker (located on the starter relay) and operate the switch. If the top motor operates, the circuit breaker is faulty and must be replaced. If there is no voltage at the circuit breaker, check the black wire from the circuit breaker to the starter relay.
Swtich-to-motor Wires: Disconnect the yellow and red switch-to-motor leads at the junction block near the motor. Connect a test lamp between the yellow wire and a ground, and check by operating the top control switch to raise the top. Connect the test lamp between the red wire and a ground, and check by operating the switch to lower the top. If the test lamp does not light in either case, the wire from the junction block to the switch is open or shorted.
Motor: Check the operation of the motor by connecting first one motor lead, and then the other, directly to the battery positive terminal. If the motor operates in either case, but will not operate when hooked into the wiring harness, check the wiring harness again for short or open circuits. If the motor will not work when hooked directly to the battery, check the black (ground) wire from the motor. If the motor still does not work, it must be replaced.
Faulty hydraulic system operation can be caused by lack of fluid, leaks, air in the system, obstructions or kinks in the hoses, or faulty operation of a cylinder or the pump.
1. Remove the rear seat and raise the top.
2. Place absorbent cloths below the filler plug.
3. Remove the filler plug, and check the fluid level. It should be level with the bottom edge of the hole.
4. If the level is low, check the system for leaks, adding automatic transmission fluid - Type A, Suffix A - as necessary.
Remove the rear seat and quarter panel trim panels, operate the top control switch, and observe the operation of the lift cylinders for the following:
If the movement of the piston rods is sluggish or uneven, check the hoses from the pump to the cylinder for kinks.
If one piston rod moves more slowly than the other, the cylinder with the slower rod is defective and should be replaced.
If both rods move slowly, or do not move at all, disassemble and repair the pump.
If the top is misaligned, corrections should not be made until after a check has been made for bent linkage. Before aligning the top, visually determine if the trouble results from top misalignment and/or window misalignment. It may be necessary to align both the top and the windows because of the relationship between the two. Adjustments of the door and quarter windows must be checked and any necesssary changes made before making top adjustments. These windows must be fully closed to insure proper ajustment.
The side rail weatherstrips can be adjusted laterally and also for and aft (Fig.2).
Adjust the weatherstrips laterally so that the sealing lips make full contact with the door quarter window frames.
Adjust the weatherstrips fore and aft to butt the ends of the weatherstrips together for a watertight seal.
The striker plates must be aligned with the dowel pins prior to making other top adjustments. The dowel pins are not adjustable. A slight lateral adjustment of the striker plate is provided by loosening the striker plate retaining screws.
The toggle clamps that hold the header bow against the header can be adjusted to provide a good seal.
1. To determine which side is not sealing, check the weatherstrip between the header bow and the header. Refer to Figure 2 for side rail weatherstip installation. Both toggle clamps need not be adjusted unless necessary.
2. Release the toggle clamps, and thread the toggle hook in or out until adequate sealing pressure is applied at the header weather strip. Excessive tightening of the toggle hooks will distort the No. 1 bow and cause poor weatherstrip sealing.
The blance link adjusting bracket is mounted on the main pivot bracket support. (Fig. 3) Two adjustments are provided at the bracket. Sliding the bracket in the elogated mounting holes permits proper stacking of the top in the well. Turning the Allen head adjusting screw adjusts the side rail to glass clearance.
Side Rail Sag: If the side rail sags above the door glass, adjust as follows:
1. Use the top of the door glass and quarter panel glass as reference points to determine the proper level of the side rail.
2. Have the top locked in the fully raised position.
3. With an Allen wrench, turn the adjusting screw in the balance link adjusting bracked down to raise the side rail. The adjusting bracket retaining screws should be loosened during this adjustment.
4. If the side rail is too high, or crowned, above the windows, turn the adjusting screw up to lower the side rail.
Top Stack: If the top stacks too high in the well, it will be difficult to fasten down the boot. To obtain proper stacking, loosen the main pivot bracket mounting screws, and let the bracket seek its own position. Then tighten the main pivot bracket retaining screws.
The main pivot bracket is mounted on the main pivot bracket support. The support is mounted to the inner quarter panel and the wheel house extension. The main pivot bracket mounting provides for shifting of the entire top assembly, for and aft, vertically and laterally.
For and Aft Adjustment:
This adjustment moves the top assembly straight forward or rearward to obtain a good fit between the rear side rail weatherstrip and the rear edge of the quarter glass. The top assembly can also be moved across the windshield header by this adjustment.
1. Loosen the the balance link retaining screws and disconnect the top assembly lift cylinders.
2. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot bracket support to the inner quarter panel and to the wheelhouse extension (Fig.4).
3. Shift the entire pivot bracket support fore or aft as required to bring the rear side rail in proper relationship to the quarter glass and tighten the main pivot bracket retaining bolts.
4. Tighten the balance link retaining screws and connect the top assembly lift cylinders.
This adjustment moves the top assembly to obtain a good fit between the windshield header and the top assembly, and between the top assembly and the window glass line.
1. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot bracket to its support (Fig.4).
2. Shift the main pivot bracket up or down as necessary to obtain the proper clearance along the side rails and quarter and door glass.
This adjustment shifts the top assembly sidewise to obtain a good seal between the side of the rear side rail and the quarter outside rear side belt moulding.
1. Loosen the screws which retain the main pivot bracket to its support.
2. Shift the main pivot bracket toward either side as necessary to obtain the proper clearance (0:38 inch) between the rear side rail and the quarter outside rear side belt mouldings and tighten the retaining screws.
3. Adjust the side rail weatherstips as necessary to obtain a satisfactory seal along the glass line.
A pump repair kit and a reservoir repair kit are available for service.
1. Operate the top to the fully raised position.
2. Remove the seat cusion.
3. Disconnect the motor leads and the ground wire.
4. Remove the attaching screws, and remove the motor and pump assembly from the floor pan. Do not lose the rubber grommets.
5. Vent the reservoir by removing the filler plug, and then re-install the filler plug. The reservoir must be vented in order to equalize the pressure. This lessens the possibility of fluid spraying on the trim and paint when the hoses are disconnected.
6. Place absorbent cloths beneath the hose connections, disconnect the hoses, and then plug the open fittings and lines.
1. Remove the filler plug, and drain the fluid from the reservoir into a clean container.
2. Scribe lines on the reservoir, pump body, and reservoir cover so these parts can be positioned properly upon assembly (Fig. 5).
3. Remove the center bolt from the reservoir cover (Fig. 6).
4. Remove the cover and reservoir, and the seal at each end of the reservoir.
5. Remove the mounting bolts that hold the valve body on the pump body.
6. Place a cloth under the assembly, and carefully remove the valve body so that the check balls are not lost.
7. Remove both rotors and the drive ball.
Use all the parts contained in the pump repair kit when assembling the pump or reservoir.
1. Install the drive ball and inner rotor on the armature shaft.
2. Install the outer rotor over the inner rotor.
3. Place the check balls in the pump body channels.
4. Install the valve body on the pump body.
5. Install the valve body mounting bolts.
6. Install a seal in each end of the reservoir.
7. Install a new seal on the center bolt, and install the reservoir and cover on the valve body, using the lines previously scribed as guides. (Fig. 5).
8. Place the assembly in a horizontal position, fill the reservoir with automatic transmission fluid Type A, Suffix A to the level of the bottom of the filler plug hole. Install the filler plug and new seal.
1. Remove the plugs from the lines and fittings, and connect the lines to the pump. Use cloths to absorb any fluid that leaks out of the lines or the pump.
2. Install the assembly on the floor pan, making sure the rubber grommets are in proper position under the mounting brackets.
3. Connect the motor lead wires and ground wire.
4. Loosen the reservoir filler plug and operate the top assembly two or three times to bleed off any air from the system. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and tighten the filler plug. The top must be up when the level is checked.
5. Install the rear seat cushion.
1. Operate the top to the fully raised position.
2. Remove the rear seat cushion and the quarter trim panels.
3. Remove the cylinder assembly support pivot bracket retaining bolts and bracket.
4. Remove the hair pin clip and clevis pin at the top end of the cylinder and remove the cylinder.
5. Disconnect the plug the hydraulic lines at the upper and lower ends of the cylinder. Use absorbent cloths to catch any fluid that leaks out.
6. Position the cylinder in the floor bracket with the hose connection facing down.
7. Connect the hydraulic lines to the cylinder.
8. Install the clevis pin and hair pin clip at the top end of the cylinder.
9. Position the cylinder assembly to the support pivot bracket and install retaining bolts.
10. Loosen the reservoir filler plug and operate the top assembly two or three times to bleed any air from the system.
11. With the top in the raised position, check the reservoir fluid level.
12. Install the quarter trim panels and the rear seat back and cushion.
1. Unfasten the clamps that hold the top to the windshield header.
2. Remove the rear seat cushion, seat back and quarter trim panel.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the rear side rail weatherstrip (Fig. 2) and remove the weatherstrip.
4. Pull the top fabric from the rear side rail.
5. Lift the top and temporarily support it in a vertical position. Remove the cotter pin and washers retaining the pivot pin and at the control link, rear side rail, and number 3 bow bracket. (Fig. 7). Lift the top to the closed position, but do not fasten the windshield header clamps.
6. With a block of wood, support the center side rail.
7. Remove the roll pin and pivot pin retaining the center side rail to the rear side rail.
8. Remove the cotter pin, washers, and pivot pin retaining the rear bow and rear side rail.
9. Remove the pivot pin retaining the top control link, rear side rail and number 3 bow.
10. Remove the roll pin and pivot pin retaining the power link to the rear side rail.
11. Pry the rear side rail from the center side rail.
12. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and pivot pin retaining the rear side rail to the main pivot bracket support.
13. Remove the rear side rail.
14. Transfer the rear side rail bushings and deflector to the new rear side rail.
15. Connect the rear side rail to the main pivot bracket with the pivot pin, washer, and cotter pin (Fig. 7).
16. Connect the power link to the rear side rail with the pivot pin and roll pin.
17. Connect the center side rail to the rear side rail with the pivot pin and roll pin.
18. Connect the rear bow to the rear side rail with the pivot pin washer, and cotter pin.
19. Lift the top, temporarily support it in a vertical positon, and remove the center side rail temporary support. Connect the top control link and the number 3 bow to the rear side rail with the pivot pin, washer, and cotter pin.
20. Cement the top fabric to the rear side rail and install the weather strip.
21. Close the top and fasten the windshield header clamps.
22. Install the quarter trim panel, rear seat back and seat cushion.
1. Unfasten the clamps that hold the top to the windshield header.
2. Unsnap the well cover from the back curtain window rear and side belt tacking strips.
3. Remove the bolts and lock washers that retain the curtain rear and side belt tacking strips to the body panel.
4. Open the back curtain window slide fastener and remove the curtain assembly.
5. Pull the tacking strips from the curtain and remove the staples from the tacking strip.
6. Remove the tacking strip adjustment retaining screws from the tacking strips (Fig. 8)
7. Align the belt center tacking strip on the curtain and staple the curtain securely to the tacking strip.
8. Staple the side tacking strips to the curtain.
9. Position the curtain assembly to the body panel, and loosely install the belt tacking strip retaining bolts and lock washers.
10. Close the curtain window slide fastener and fasten the top clamps at the windshield header.
11. To adjust the curtain window, tighten or loosen the tacking strip retaining bolts as required. After adjusting the curtain, install and tighten the tacking strip adjustment retaining screws until they bottom against the body panel.
12. Snap the top well cover retainers into the tacking strip.
1. Unfasten the top clamps at the windshield header, and then open the curtain window slide fastener.
2. Using a marking pencil, mark mating lines at the center of the No. 4 bow, the retainer, and the slide fastener and welt assembly.
3. Loosen the retainer attaching screws along the back face of the No. 4 bow sufficiently and remove the upper half of the slide fastener and welt assembly (Fig. 8).
4. Remove the upper half of the slide fastener from the welt assembly.
5. Position the upper half of the slide fastener on the welt assembly and sew. Make sure the slide fastener overhangs the welt byt the same amount as the original installation.
6. Position the welt portion of the slide fastener in the retainer on the No. 4 bow center, using locating marks, and tighten the retaining screws.
7. Close the slide fastener, and then fasten the top clamps at the windshield header.
8. To adjust the curtain window unsnap the convertible top well cover from the curtain rear and side belt tacking strips. Loosen the tacking strip adjustment retaining screws. Then, tighten or loosen the tacking strip retaining bolts as required.
9. After adjusting the curtain, tighten the tacking strip adjustment retaining screws until they bottom against the body panel. Snap the top well cover retainers into the tacking strip.
1. Unfasten the convertible top clamps at the windshield header.
2. Unsnap the convertible top well cover from the curtian rear and side belt tacking strips.
3. Remove the bolts and lock washers that retain the curtain rear and side belt tacking strips to the body panel. (Fig. 8).
4. Open the curtain window slide fastener, and remove the curtain assembly.
5. Cut the old slide fastener from the curtain and sew the new slide fastener in place.
6. Loosen the tacking strip adjustment retaining screws.
7. Position the curtain assembly to the body panel, and loosely install the belt tacking strip retaining bolts and lock washers.
8. Close the curtain window slide fastener and fasten the top clamps at the windshield header.
9. To adjust the curtain window, tighten or loosen the tacking strip retaining bolts as required. After adjusting the curtain, tighten the tacking strip retaining screws until they bottom against the body panel.
10. Snap the top well cover retainers into the tacking strip.
The convertible top consists of the deck and two side quarters, bonded into one piece of material. The bonded seams eliminate the possibility of leaks and also separation,due to thread deterioration. In most cases it will be advantageous to replace the back curtain when replacing the top fabric.
1. Place a protective cover across the deck, cowl and hood to prevent scratching the finish when replacing the top.
2. Remove the rear seat cushion and seat back.
3. Raise the top to gain access to the underside of the front bow.
4. Remove the front weatherstrip retainer (Fig. 9) and the weatherstrip.
5. Remove the two front side rail weatherstrip retainers and the weatherstrips.
6. Remove the two center side rail and the two rear side rail weatherstrips.
7. Remove the metal screw and washer that secures each end of the folding top compartment well to the pivot bracket supports.
8. Starting at one end of the compartment, carefully pull the trim retainer out of the channel. Fold the trim over the seat area and quarter panel trim.
9. Remove the tip from each end of the moulding on the rear bow. Carefully pull the moulding out of the retainer. Pry the moulding retainer off the bow.
10. Remove the bolts that attach the top and back curtain tacking strips to the body.
11. Remove the staples that secure the top material to the rear bow.
12. Carefully pull the top material free from the underside of each rail.
13. Remove the staples that secure the top material to the underside of the front bow.
14. Carefully separate the top from the listings on No. 2 and 3 bows.
1. Remove the tacking strips from the old top.
2. Staple them to the new top in the same location as they were on the old top.
3. Fit the new top on the roof bows.
4. Working from the center outward, staple the top deck to the rear bow. Make sure that the rear section of the slits is stapled to the bow before drawing and stapling the front portion of the slits.
5. Secure, and tighten the quarter deck tacking strips to the body as required to align the listings with the No. 2 and 3 bows.
6. Center the top material and pull it forward over the front bow to remove the wrinkles from the top deck and quarters. While the material is pulled over the front bow, make a reference mark on the material at the leading edge of the bow with a piece of chalk. The mark should extend the entire length of the bow.
7. Raise the top high enough to gain access to the underside of the front bow.
8. Align the reference mark to the leading edge of the bow and staple the material in place.
9. Install the weatherstrip and the three retainers on the No. 1 bow.
10. Secure the flaps to the underside of the side rail with trim cement. Trim the excess material from the flaps.
11. Install the rear, center and the front weatherstrips on the side rails so that the end of the weatherstrips are in alignment of the side rail joints.
12. Tighten the quarter deck tacking strips as required to remove wrinkles from the material and obtain a tight seal at the mouldings.
13. Install a piece of tape across the rear bow to cover the staples.
14. Install the moulding retainer, moulding and the two tips on the rear bow.
15. Secure the back curtain to the upper part of the zipper.
16. Secure the back curtain tacking strip in place with the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts as required working from the center outward.
17. Starting at one end of the folding top compartment, insert the trim retainer into the channel.
18. Secure each end of the trim to the pivot bracket supports with a metal screw and washer.
19. Install the rear seat back and cushion.
20. Cement the top material to the listings on the No. 2 and 3 bows.
21. Remove the protective covers from the back deck and hood.
22. Clean all chalk reference marks from the top material.